On Wednesdays We Wear PINK
Isn't this tiara magnificent in its chonkiness? Made by the Rozet & Fischmeister firm in Vienna around 1900, it has pink tourmalines, peridots, diamonds and translucent plique-à-jour. It currently lives at the Albion Art Institute but there are no images of it on their site. I most often see this described as Art Nouveau but this Instagram post has a very informative write up. It is super interesting and I'd hate for you to miss it so here it is in case you don't do Instagram:
An Austrian Jugendstil tiara, 1900s, Wiener Secession, set with large cabochon pink tourmaline, peridot and diamonds with details of translucent pink - and green plique-à-jour or enamel foliage elements enhance its botanical character. It is crafted in a silver and gold mount typical of Austrian Art Nouveau work.
Collection Albion Art Institute
This tiara reflects the refined aesthetics of Art Nouveau jewellery. Its design features flowing, organic lines inspired by nature and symbolism, reflecting the Secessionist emphasis on linear elegance, stylized plant motifs, and harmony between metalwork and gemstones. Collection Albion Art Institute Exhibition Journey with Minerals at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts in Shanghai through March 29, 2026.
The Wiener Secession, founded in 1897 by artists such as Gustav Klimt, Koloman Moser, and Josef Hoffmann, sought to break from historic styles and create a modern artistic language.
While related to Art Nouveau, the Secession developed a more restrained and geometric aesthetic, emphasizing clarity, craftsmanship, and the unity of art and design.
Jewellery from this period reflected these ideals through refined forms and innovative materials. Designers favored flowing yet controlled lines, stylized botanical motifs, and harmonious proportions rather than heavy ornamentation. Pieces often combined enamel, semi-precious stones, pearls, and silver with subtle gold accents to achieve luminous color effects.
Secessionist jewels were conceived as wearable works of art, expressing modern elegance, artistic individuality, and the movement’s belief in beauty integrated into everyday life.
On one of the Facebook groups that posted this tiara, someone commented that they scrolled by fast and thought the green leaves were jalapeño slices and, you know what? I can't unsee it now!
I'll leave you with a back view of the tiara. You can see that it's flexible enough that you can wear it either closed in or pulled wide to cover more area. This also gives a good view of the ends of the tiara, which aren't loops but, well, I'm not sure what you'd call them. Sticky up pieces?
- Jugendstil: The German Art Nouveau Movement
- Rozet & Fischmeister
- Tourmaline: Earth's most colorful mineral and gem material
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